NBC Chicago’s Food Guy Steve Dolinsky says there is nothing flashy about a relatively new restaurant in the South Loop. Just solid, well-executed classics – with a twist or two.
The restaurant’s marketing spiel promises Southern California supper club vibes, rooted in the 1930s. If that means liberally using beef fat, layering flavors with lots of texture and treating richness as a virtue rather than a vice, then so be it.
Don’t be fooled by the burger and fries. Because while it may look like something run-of-the-mill, this one has a housemade special sauce, aged Hook’s 5-year cheddar and sesame buns toasted in beef fat. Like everything else at Oliver’s – an understated space on an underdeveloped stretch of South Wabash Avenue – they’re focusing on elevating the familiar…