Some years ago I embarked on a quixotic quest to renovate the reputation of a particular white wine grape that had all but disappeared from Northwest wineries. Though Chenin Blanc had been planted (mostly in Washington rather than Oregon) back in the 1980s, by 2010 only a handful of wineries – notably Kiona and L’Ecole No 41 – were even trying to make a pure, dry, old vine version. So I decided to give it a go. A couple of visits to the Loire valley, where Chenin Blanc flourishes in a wide variety of styles, convinced me that old vines were the key to quality. Yet in Washington the oldest vineyards were being ripped out or grafted over, and those remaining were generally over-cropped and the fruit mixed into generic white blends or cheap fizz.
My project, bottled under the Waitsburg Cellars label, was an attempt to find the oldest obtainable Chenin grapes and make the best possible wine in two different styles. Stylistically it succeeded. Even won some nice awards. And following the retirement of the label almost a decade ago, it does seem that the interest in quality Chenin Blancs has grown, and a number of small producers have jumped on the old vine bandwagon. But I wouldn’t go so far as to say it has become a widespread success. In fact, an even more obscure white wine grape has pushed it aside.
Viognier is the unlikely white wine grape that has grabbed the imagination of winemakers and inspired a devoted following among consumers. It’s a grape that was almost completely unknown 25 years ago, a French grape that a few decades earlier was almost extinct in France, and worse still is saddled with an almost unpronounceable French name. I’ve heard it called vogner, veener, veegener, vee-oneer and just about any other imaginative pronunciation. For the record it’s vee-oh-nyay, and it is having a small but thrilling renaissance throughout the Pacific Northwest.
Though planted experimentally at Mike Sauer’s Red Willow vineyard back in 1983, it really didn’t gain any traction in Washington until about 20 years ago. And only recently have Northwest Viogniers, including excellent versions from southern Oregon, start to settle comfortably into a distinctive, balanced style.
Like Chenin Blanc, Viognier can express itself in a broad range of styles, though it seems to have a narrow window for optimal ripeness, depending of course upon the location of the vineyard. If picked too soon the flavors can be bitter and the finish thin; if picked too late the wine gets fat, oily and alcoholic. Pick it exactly right, ferment and age it in stainless steel or concrete or neutral wood, and Viognier will strike a neat flavor chord composed of citrus blossom, zest of lime and grapefruit, vivid peach and apricot stone fruit, and a tangy, sometimes-creamy, textured elegance. When it works, Viognier really works…